The front wing — what North American markets call a fender — is the body panel that sits between the A-pillar and the front wheel arch, acting as both a styling surface and a structural shield for the wheel assembly and front suspension components beneath it. On most modern cars the wing is a bolt-on replacement part rather than a structural element, which makes collision damage repair far simpler than on designs where the panel is welded to the sill or A-pillar. Corrosion is the other dominant failure mode, particularly along the lower edge where the wing meets the wheel arch liner; trapped moisture and road salt cause rust to propagate from the inside outwards, making the damage invisible until it breaks through the surface. Because wing geometry is vehicle-specific down to the mounting hole positions, door-to-wing gap tolerances and wheel arch radius, the OE part number is the most reliable way to guarantee a panel that fits without modification. Polcar and BLIC manufacture replacement wings covering the majority of high-volume European models, and their parts are designed to the original panel geometry with pre-formed hole positions. Steel wings should always be primed and painted before fitting to prevent corrosion from starting at cut edges.
Wings are unique to each model and model year, and some models have separate OE numbers for left and right sides as well as for pre-facelift and post-facelift variants. Use your vehicle's make, model and year — and note whether you need the driver's or passenger's side — to narrow down the correct reference. The mounting hole positions for headlamp adjuster bolts, bonnet hinges and bumper attachment points are all part-specific, so the OE number is the safest guide rather than relying on aftermarket compatibility claims alone.
Most original wings are formed from mild steel, which is easily painted, straightened after minor impacts and widely available. Some performance and premium models use aluminium wings, which are lighter and do not rust but require specialist repair techniques. Aftermarket suppliers occasionally offer thermoplastic or SMC composite wings as a corrosion-free alternative; these accept paint in the same way as steel but cannot be straightened and must be replaced rather than repaired after any significant impact. For standard repair purposes, steel or aluminium replacement wings from Polcar, BLIC or Klokkerholm are the appropriate choice.
If the wing is being replaced due to a collision, inspect the wheel arch liner at the same time — impact damage frequently cracks or displaces the liner even when external damage looks confined to the wing. A missing or cracked liner allows mud and water to build up directly against the inner wing and suspension components, accelerating corrosion and potentially fouling suspension linkages. In corrosion cases where rust has already reached the arch area, the liner and any rubber sealing strips should be renewed alongside the wing to prevent the problem recurring.
A wing that has been damaged in a collision can often be straightened and refinished if the metal has not been torn, perforated or kinked beyond the elastic limit of the panel. Corrosion, however, cannot be properly repaired once it has progressed beyond surface oxidation: filler over rust continues to corrode beneath the surface, and the panel will eventually blister and fail regardless of how well the visible rust was treated. Any perforation, bubbling paint along the wheel arch lower edge, or visible rust-through on the inner face of the wing are indicators that full replacement is the only lasting remedy.
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