The brake calliper houses the pistons that press the pads onto the disc every time the pedal is applied, and it carries the weight of daily thermal cycling better than almost any other braking component. When a calliper seizes, the symptom is usually asymmetric — one side of the car pulling under braking, a dragging wheel that warms faster than its counterpart, or a pad that wears at an angle. Floating callipers used on most family cars rely on sliding pins and dust boots that fail gradually with age and road salt, while fixed opposed-piston designs found on performance cars concentrate on sealing integrity instead. Matching the OE number is what guarantees you get the correct piston diameter, mounting geometry, and bracket interface for your specific chassis. Established names such as TRW and TRISCAN manufacture the majority of original-equipment callipers fitted at the factory, and their replacements carry the same OE references. Because the internal seals and sliding surfaces wear together, replacement callipers are typically fitted in axle pairs rather than individually, preserving even braking balance on both sides of the car.
Every calliper listed on this page shows the OE references TecDoc links to specific vehicle chassis. Cross-check the number stamped on your existing unit — it is typically cast into the calliper body near the bleed nipple — against the numbers listed, and confirm the match using your VIN or the make-model-year selector. For the vast majority of European cars the OE number is unique to the axle (front vs rear) and the mounting bracket type, so getting it right means you will not need to swap brackets or pads at fitting time.
Yes, as a general rule brake callipers should be replaced in axle pairs. Internal seals and piston surfaces wear at roughly the same rate on both sides of the car, so a single-sided replacement often leads to uneven braking forces until the new side beds in and, more often, a repeat failure within a year or two when the opposite side finally gives up. The cost of doing both sides during one workshop visit is almost always lower than two separate jobs.
OEM callipers are manufactured to the vehicle builder's original drawings, usually by TRW, ATE, Brembo or a similar tier-one supplier, and carry the exact OE number. Quality aftermarket callipers from established names like SHAFTEC or APEC are produced to equivalent tolerances and are fully compatible, though finish and remanufactured-versus-new status can vary. Budget aftermarket units cost less but tend to use lower-grade seals and piston coatings, which shortens their service interval in salt-laden climates.
The most common symptom is a car that pulls to one side under braking, caused by a seized piston on the opposite side. Other signs include a hot wheel hub after a short drive, uneven pad wear where one side is burned down while the other still has material, a soft or spongy pedal that does not recover, brake fluid weeping at the piston dust boot, or a rhythmic drag at low speed when a sliding-pin calliper no longer releases cleanly. Any of these justifies an inspection before the next journey.
Showing 100 of 114,588 Brake calliper OE numbers. Enter the OE on the main OE search to jump to any reference.
