Modern suspension geometry depends on the anti-roll bar — the torsional spring that spans the front or rear axle and limits body roll during cornering. The stabiliser bar mounting is the rubber or polyurethane bush that clamps the bar to the subframe or body, isolating it from the chassis while allowing the controlled twisting motion that is its entire purpose. When these bushes wear, the bar shifts axially and the precise location geometry changes; the result is audible as a knocking or clunking from underneath the car on uneven road surfaces, and felt as a vague or wandering steering response through corners. Unlike other suspension components, bush degradation is gradual — drivers often adapt to the progressive deterioration without realising how much handling has changed until new parts are fitted. Febi Bilstein and TEDGUM manufacture a substantial share of original-equipment stabiliser bar mountings across European platforms, and their replacement units carry matching OE references for precise fitment. The OE number is important here because the bush inner diameter, outer diameter and durometer are specified per axle and per bar diameter, which varies between standard and sports suspension variants of the same car. Most repairs are straightforward with basic workshop tools, and both sides of the axle should always be replaced together.
The mounting bush is specified by bar diameter, inner bore and compound hardness — all of which vary between the standard and sport suspension variants of the same model, and sometimes between left-hand and right-hand drive configurations. Use your vehicle's make, model, year and if possible the suspension option code to filter OE references on this page. If you have the existing bush to hand, measure the inner diameter (typically 18–26 mm for most European cars) and cross-reference that against the listed part numbers to confirm compatibility before ordering.
Original-equipment bushes are almost always natural or synthetic rubber, chosen for their ability to absorb road noise and micro-vibrations that a stiffer material would transmit into the cabin. Polyurethane bushes offer greater stiffness and longer wear life, which improves handling precision and reduces deflection under hard cornering, but they transmit more noise and require periodic greasing to prevent squealing. For standard road use on a family car, OEM rubber is the right choice. Polyurethane is appropriate for vehicles used on track or where the original rubber fails prematurely due to oil contamination.
Yes — because both bushes on the same axle are subject to identical loading cycles, replacing only one side leaves a mismatched stiffness across the bar. The new bush will deflect less than the worn one on the other side, producing an asymmetric roll response that can feel like the car pulls slightly to one side through bends. The cost difference between replacing one and both sides is minimal when the car is already on the ramp, so fitting them in pairs at the same time is standard workshop practice.
The most recognisable symptom is a hollow knocking or clunking sound from beneath the car when driving over speed bumps, expansion joints or rough road surfaces, particularly at low speed. The noise often changes character between left-hand and right-hand turns because the bar loads differently in each direction. On smooth roads the car may feel vague through corners, with a slight delay between steering input and the car's response — a sign that the bar is moving within its mounting rather than transmitting force immediately. A visual inspection will often show the rubber cracked, split or displaced from its seat.
Showing 100 of 5,813 Stabiliser bar mounting OE numbers. Enter the OE on the main OE search to jump to any reference.
