Boot gas springs are pressurised struts that hold the tailgate or boot lid open against gravity, freeing both hands when loading or unloading. Each unit contains nitrogen gas and hydraulic oil sealed behind a precision-bore cylinder, and the force rating is matched by the manufacturer to the exact weight and geometry of the lid it supports. When a gas spring begins to fail, the tailgate drifts downward after being raised, requires propping open with a stick, or drops suddenly while the boot is being accessed — all symptoms of lost internal pressure through a faulty seal. Because the spring rate must counterbalance the lid's hinge geometry precisely, fitting the wrong part number can result in a lid that is either impossible to lift unaided or slams open with excessive force. Stabilus and Monroe are among the best-known suppliers of original-equipment gas springs across European vehicle platforms, and their catalogue references map directly to the OE numbers fitted at the factory. Springs are almost always replaced in pairs: if one side has lost pressure, the other is at the same age and will follow shortly. Confirming your OE number from the body of the existing strut removes any guesswork about fitting position and extension length.
The OE number for a boot gas spring encodes the extended length, compressed length, gas pressure rating, and the ball-stud or pin-end type specific to your vehicle's hinge configuration. Look for the part number stamped or printed on the body of the existing strut before removal — it often begins with a vehicle manufacturer code followed by digits. Match that against the OE references listed here, or use your make, model, and year to filter to the correct fitment. Getting the length wrong by even 10 mm will prevent the boot from sitting flush when closed.
OEM boot gas springs, supplied by companies such as Stabilus or Stabilus-branded variants, are built to the vehicle manufacturer's exact force and geometry specification. Quality aftermarket units from established catalogues are produced to equivalent tolerances and are a fully practical choice. Very cheap unbranded units sometimes use thinner piston rods or lower-quality seals that allow nitrogen to escape within a year, leading to the same slow-drift failure you were replacing in the first place.
Yes. Both springs on a tailgate were installed at the factory on the same day, have cycled through the same number of openings, and are subject to identical thermal stresses. Replacing only the failed side leaves the other side at similar age and internal pressure, meaning a repeat failure is likely within six to twelve months. Fitting both in one job costs marginally more than the parts alone and saves the cost of a second workshop visit.
The most common sign is a tailgate or boot lid that no longer stays open under its own weight — it drifts down slowly and eventually needs propping. In colder weather this symptom often appears first because cold temperatures reduce gas pressure temporarily. Other signs include a spring body that feels loose or has oil residue on the outer tube (indicating seal failure), or a lid that opens with noticeably less assistance than usual. If the lid falls shut without warning, the spring has lost pressure entirely and should be replaced immediately as a safety hazard.
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