The rear silencer is the last section of the exhaust system before the tailpipe exits the vehicle, and its primary job is to reduce the pressure pulses and resonance frequencies generated by the engine's firing cycles into an acceptable sound level. Inside, sound waves are redirected through a series of chambers and perforated tubes that cancel each other out through destructive interference. Corrosion is by far the most common failure mode — road salt, condensation trapped inside the silencer body, and the thermal cycling of exhaust gases cause the outer shell to perforate and the internal baffles to disintegrate, producing a distinctive low rumble or drone that deepens as the structure collapses further. Most rear silencers on European cars last between six and twelve years depending on annual mileage and road conditions; short urban journeys that prevent full warm-up accelerate internal moisture damage considerably. Klarius and Faurecia both manufacture to OEM specification and cover a wide range of European applications, from VW and Peugeot to Fiat and Ford. Because rear silencer dimensions — inlet diameter, length, and mounting hanger positions — are chassis-specific, selecting by OE number confirms the correct unit without the risk of bracket adapters or modified hangers at fitting.
Rear silencers are position and chassis-specific — the inlet pipe diameter, body length, and hanger bracket positions are all encoded in the OE number. Use the make-model-engine selector on this page, or check the number printed on the existing unit's label or stamped into the hanger bracket area. On VW, Ford, and Peugeot platforms in particular, different body variants and engine options use different tail sections, so confirming the OE number prevents the need for modified brackets or mismatched pipe diameters at installation.
OEM silencers are manufactured by exhaust specialists such as Faurecia or Klarius to the vehicle builder's acoustic and dimensional specification. Aftermarket equivalents from these same brands use equivalent gauge steel and internal baffle designs. Budget aftermarket silencers frequently use thinner mild steel without the aluminised or stainless coating found on better units, which significantly shortens corrosion life — sometimes failing within two or three years in regions with heavy winter road-salting.
In most cases, only the failed section needs replacing. Modern exhaust systems are designed in bolt-together or slip-joint sections — front pipe, middle silencer (where fitted), and rear silencer — so each can be replaced independently. The joints do corrode and can be difficult to separate, but a workshop equipped with a pipe cutter and flange spreader can usually isolate the rear section without disturbing the catalyst or centre pipe. If the flanges are completely seized, a flexible repair joint can bridge the connection.
A deeper, louder exhaust note than normal is the most obvious symptom, caused by perforations or a collapsing internal baffle. A visible hole, rust patch, or black soot marks around the body confirm physical failure. Rattling at idle — particularly below 1,500 rpm — can indicate a broken internal baffle that has come loose without the outer shell yet perforating. Occasionally, exhaust fumes entering the cabin through the boot floor seal are the first clue that the silencer has failed close to the rear of the underbody.
Showing 100 of 7,681 Final Muffler OE numbers. Enter the OE on the main OE search to jump to any reference.
