Turbocharger Buying Guide
Last updated: 24 April 2026
The turbocharger — also known as a turbo, turbo charger, or turbocharger assembly — is an exhaust-driven centrifugal compressor that forces additional air into the engine, allowing more fuel to be burned and significantly boosting power output relative to engine size. Modern petrol and diesel engines from 1.0-litre city cars to heavy commercial vehicles rely on turbocharging to meet fuel economy and emissions targets. A failing turbo causes a loss of power, excessive oil consumption, blue or black smoke, and a loud whine or surge from the turbo itself. CarParts247 stocks remanufactured and new replacement turbochargers from Garrett, BorgWarner, and Mitsubishi Turbocharger (MHI), covering hundreds of engine codes.
Symptoms of a failing turbocharger
Turbo failure is rarely sudden. A systematic check of oil supply, boost pressure, and shaft play will confirm whether the turbo is at fault before committing to a replacement.
- Loss of power, especially above 2,000 rpm where boost contributes most
- Blue-grey smoke on acceleration — oil being ingested through damaged seals
- Black smoke — over-fuelling caused by poor boost pressure management
- Loud whine, surge, or grinding from the turbo — bearing or wheel damage
- Boost pressure fault codes (P0299 boost under-pressure, P0046 turbo control circuit)
- Oil in the intercooler pipes — oil carry-over from a worn compressor seal
Common causes of turbo failure
The vast majority of turbocharger failures are preventable. Oil starvation and oil contamination account for roughly 90 % of turbo warranty claims. The turbo shaft can spin at over 150,000 rpm and depends entirely on a continuous film of clean, pressurised oil for lubrication.
- Infrequent oil changes — degraded oil loses its viscosity and anti-wear properties
- Running the engine low on oil — even briefly
- Not idling down before switching off after hard driving, allowing the bearing to overheat
- Turbine wheel impact from ingested debris through a damaged air filter or cracked intake hose
- Boost control solenoid failure causing over-boost, which over-speeds the turbo
Fitting a replacement turbocharger
When fitting a new or remanufactured turbo, pre-oiling is critical. Disconnect the oil feed banjo bolt and crank the engine with the ignition disabled until oil flows freely, then reconnect and start. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes before driving to purge air from the bearing housing. Replace the oil and filter before or immediately after the new turbo is fitted.
- Replace the oil feed and return pipes — blocked passages on a new turbo cause immediate bearing failure
- Check and clean the intercooler for oil contamination from the old turbo
- Inspect the air filter and all intake hoses before running the new unit
- On variable-geometry turbos (VGT), actuator calibration may be required with a diagnostic tool
- Some Garrett and BorgWarner units require a specific break-in idle period
Category page
- Browse matching parts
Turbo failure symptoms, oil supply essentials, and choosing between new and remanufactured turbochargers.
Related guides
- Camshaft Position Sensor Buying Guide
P0340 fault codes, misfires, and rough running — how camshaft sensors control valve timing and when to replace them.
- Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Buying Guide
Oil leaks, high oil consumption, and rough idle — how the PCV valve prevents pressure build-up, clogging symptoms, and easy replacement steps.
- Crankshaft Position Sensor Buying Guide
No-start, misfires, and sudden engine cut-out — how the crankshaft sensor works, fault codes, and choosing the correct replacement.
- Drive Belt Buying Guide
Serpentine and auxiliary belt replacement — signs of wear, tensioner advice, and what happens when a belt snaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a turbocharger last?
A well-maintained turbo typically lasts 100,000–150,000 miles. Regular oil changes with the manufacturer's specified grade are the single biggest factor in turbo longevity.
Can I drive with a failing turbo?
Avoid it. A disintegrating turbine wheel can send metal fragments into the engine, causing catastrophic damage. Drive at low throttle to a garage and avoid sustained high revs.
Should I fit a new or remanufactured turbocharger?
Remanufactured units from reputable suppliers such as Garrett Remanufactured or BorgWarner carry the same warranty as new and are built to the same tolerances. They are typically 30–50 % cheaper than new OE units and are the preferred choice for high-volume engines where supply is established.
Do I need to change the oil when replacing the turbo?
Yes. Old oil contains metal particles from the failed turbo. Fitting a new turbo with contaminated oil shortens its life significantly. Change the oil and filter as part of the job.
What is turbo lag and can it be reduced?
Turbo lag is the delay between pressing the throttle and the turbo producing full boost, caused by the exhaust gas needing time to spin the compressor wheel up to speed. Smaller turbos, twin-scroll designs, and variable-geometry turbines all reduce lag.
Related Guides
P0340 fault codes, misfires, and rough running — how camshaft sensors control valve timing and when to replace them.
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Buying GuideOil leaks, high oil consumption, and rough idle — how the PCV valve prevents pressure build-up, clogging symptoms, and easy replacement steps.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Buying GuideNo-start, misfires, and sudden engine cut-out — how the crankshaft sensor works, fault codes, and choosing the correct replacement.
Drive Belt Buying GuideSerpentine and auxiliary belt replacement — signs of wear, tensioner advice, and what happens when a belt snaps.
Ready to find the right part?
Browse spare parts