How do I know if a wheel nut needs replacing?

Replace a wheel nut if the threads are stripped or cross-threaded, the seat is rounded or corroded, or it no longer tightens securely. Damaged or rusty nuts that will not torque up correctly should be renewed to keep the wheel safely fastened.

What is the difference between wheel nuts and wheel bolts?

Wheel nuts thread onto studs fixed to the hub, while wheel bolts screw directly into the hub, and different vehicles use one or the other. The seat shape also varies, being tapered, flat, or radius, so the type must match your wheels and hub.

How do I find wheel nuts that fit my car and wheels?

Wheel nuts must match the thread size and pitch and the correct seat type for your wheels. Enter your registration above to see replacement wheel nuts confirmed to fit your exact vehicle.

How much do replacement wheel nuts cost?

The price of a wheel nut depends on your exact vehicle and the brand you choose. Enter your registration above to see parts confirmed to fit, then compare prices from the brands we stock on this page. Free UK delivery on orders over £50.

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Wheel Nut buying guide — what to know before you buy

Wheel nuts secure the road wheel to the hub and must be tightened to the correct torque specification to prevent wheel vibration, stud failure, or — in the worst case — wheel separation. Choosing the correct wheel nut seat type and thread pitch for your alloy wheels is essential for safe fitment.

Wheel nut seat types

Wheel nuts come in three main seat types: conical (tapered), spherical (ball seat), and flat (with washer). The seat type must match the seat machined into the wheel's bolt holes — using the wrong type leaves the nut bearing on the wrong surface, which can cause the nut to work loose or damage the wheel. Most alloy wheels use a 60° conical seat; OEM steel wheels often use a spherical seat.

Thread pitch is equally critical. European vehicles predominantly use M12×1.5 or M14×1.5 threads, while some Japanese and American vehicles use different pitches. Check both the thread diameter and pitch before ordering. Open-ended nuts allow a longer stud engagement; closed-end nuts are used where the stud would otherwise protrude too far.

Correct torque is safety-critical

Under-torquing wheel nuts allows them to work loose through vibration, which can cause wheel wobble and ultimately wheel loss at speed. Over-torquing stretches or snaps studs and warps brake discs. Most passenger car wheel nuts are torqued to 100–130 Nm depending on the vehicle — always check the manufacturer's specification. Use a calibrated torque wrench, not an impact driver, for final tightening.

After fitting new wheels or changing a spare, re-check torque after the first 50 miles, as wheel nuts can settle slightly on new wheel or hub mating surfaces.

Match seat type to wheel (conical, spherical, or flat)
Match thread pitch and diameter to hub studs
Torque to manufacturer's specification (not guesswork)
Re-check after 50 miles following wheel change
Replace any nut that shows cross-threading or rounding

Aftermarket and locking wheel nuts

Locking wheel nuts use a unique key socket pattern to deter wheel theft. They replace one of the four or five standard nuts on each wheel. Always store the locking wheel nut key in the vehicle — losing it makes wheel changes and tyre fitting impossible without specialist removal. Compare standard and locking wheel nut sets on this page.